Alaska Homebuilt Camper Tips

May this help someone

   Ah, the simple life. After 31 years of physical existence, I must say, from all the experiences I've had, that I'll take it simply please ;) Those who know this soul know this is my mantra. Climbing, linux "computers", kung fu, beer, everything; simply please...Yes, I indeed can complicate things but I never stray from - simply please.


   So, the pictures and text following are tips and if you choose to call them tricks of version two of the mothership project. A homebuilt camper on the back of a 1989 Toyota pickup. Version one resided on the same vehicle but only lasted two years, which involved a to and from and everything in between trip from Alaska and Mexico. Version one was quite a payload, being built with 3/4" plywood. Though it did survive a vehicle flip onto the side. We believe the plywood of that beast was very responsible for the lack of damage to the truck, though it could have been the reasoning to the flip to begin with.


    I'm not sure how to structure this for others, so I'll just list the pros and cons of one and two, with of course pictures too and a difference floating in the ethers of your mind. Here ya go.

Version 1 notes

Pros

Learning experience which flowed into version 2

Security; Need of a chainsaw or electric screw driver to break in

A roof that your not afraid to jump on with all your weight

Such a sloppy job helps when in scary cities

A good cushion for a vehicle flip onto the side

No need for a tent when traveling

A surface for GeorgeAnne to paint on

Cons

Weighed WAY TO MUCH! lol

Leaked a little :(

2 separate sections - overcab and main unit

Overcab was absolutely useless

Too many screws

Sloppy cuts

Unnecessary roof tie down metal loops

Kept bumping our heads on the ceiling - too low

Only one window which also was to close to the door - lacked crossdraft

Wasted WAY TOO MUCH MONEY! -= $500.00

Didn't file down all sharp blunt cut screws DOH!



Version 2 notes

Pros

Used 3/8" for plywood; light!

Used 1/2" for door; light, strong

No unnecessary roof tiedowns

4 outside shelves instead of 2

Overcab and main are one piece

Two windows, properly placed

Straight cuts with own skill saw :)

Less screws

Better window sealing method

Higher, lighter

No leaks, bed and structure seal better

Better rear piece fastening method

Better window latches

Better insulation methods

More usable storage space

Trick bike rack idea

Door makes a great rain fly

Used old materials too, thus cheaper -=$300

Girlfriend and I worked as a team this time, lol

Cons

A little less secure due to thinner wood

Placed 2x4s horizontal for roof DOH! BAD!

Flashing pissed me off, messy job...

Might need more sealent

Might need more "grey stuff"

Didn't use flashing every where, maybe bad?

Version 1 pictures

Frontal view of useless overcab
Side view from Squamish Canada
Now that's security, lol
Night time, notice heavy door keeper too, lol

Notice hanging object idea, also
sharp bolts, huge hinges (recommended) and
the snicker of a smile ;)


Shelves, VERY useful!
Our friend Henry, he WAS on the ceiling



Version 2 pictures

Before the madness
Truck bed fastening/sealing method (thick garage door seal rubber)
Frame and first wall (first step also, notice clamps keeping first wall)

First side wall, notice it's one piece, also notice spacing from truck roof to overcab

Second side wall
A climber using a skill saw, keep fingers safe if ya want to climb...
Rear view with both walls and overcab coming together

Kept overcab front panels horizontal instead of vertical, angles are tricky for the 2x4s

Rear view, bed in, door cut, final framing done, notice gaps at base
Sealing method used on gaps at base (high quality spray foam)
Two shelves per side, keep closed and locking method, the rear is 1/2"
Roof bike rack method for forks of bike, notice wing nuts
Security ring, through square 3/4"-3/8"-2x4, this is for a chaining bikes

Roof bike rack method for rear tire, notice also the "grey stuff" roofing sealant

Calking used on flashing, seal this...plywood edges last longer
Simple window latch, a carabiner is used to keep it closed
A good use of a shelf :)
Spray foam at door, also notice wood sealant is used (important!)

Window method:3/8" strip, wire netting and garage door rubber seal sandwich, also notice hooks

Blocking where wall and roof meet, legnth of wall
Fabric over insulation, also notice frame method
Got pissed off at flashing :(

Next five pics show the method used for keeping things in the overcab when mobile, self explanatory
Pic1
Pic2
Pic3
Pic4
Pic5

The BIG mistake, keep ceiling 2x4s vertical! Notice string for hanging things

Fabric is just stapled
Finished rear, notice hooks for things
Finished side
Finished front
Finished side, notice carabiner



Summary


I was going to list supplies, but after thinking about it, I came to the conclusion that I don't want to ruin your fun. Just remember this, think water proof (stains, roofing goop and garage door rubber seals), think weight, think security and comfort. The most important areas to seal are where the walls meet the bed of the truck, also of course the roof. Speaking of roof, keep the 2x4s vertical up there, even if it means bumping your head every now and then. Flashing keeps the edges of the plywood dry and clean, rot happens at those areas. We caulked these areas before applying the flashing. I don't recommend using 2x2s and thin plywood, use 2x4s with 3/8 and 1/2 (door:security). Lot's of screws were used, short for plywood and long for 2x4s duh! lol. Try to keep the screw count low.

Not bad for version two, next will be better, naturally. Well, happy travels ;)


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